I Liked This Tour Very Matcha

View from Uji Bridge

Bestie and I booked a tea tour in the city of Uji which s known as the "Tea Town" of Kyoto. This is where some of Japan's best matcha comes from and there were people on this tour who couldn't wait to get their hands on some matcha straight from the source. I guess they buy it online, but it of course costs way more than to just purchase it in Uji, if you're already there anyway. One lady would up with an armful of the same cannister because it was so cheap compared to the price she normally buys it at, but I'm getting ahead of myself. I literally booked this just for Bestie, I don't really like matcha. Green tea, delicious, but Matcha is often too intense and bitter for me, but Bestie enjoys it quite a bit. And I'd be lying if I said I didn't want to check out a quaint, charming little town away from the main part of the city, and I do like learning about how something is made. So, there's that.

Statue of the Murasaki Shikibu, author of The Tale of Genji

Uji is the main setting of the last 10 chapters in The Tale of Genji; an iconic work of Japanese literature from the 11th century, touted as a masterpiece and considered the world's first novel. Not only is that impressive on its own, but it is also written by a noblewoman of that time period, Murasaki Shikibu. She even has her own statue adjacent to the Uji bridge, on the banks of the Uji river. This city also houses the oldest tea shop in Japan, Tsuen, which was established in 1160 and is currently run by the 24th head of the original family. Two UNESCO World Heritage Sites also reside here, both built during the Heian Period (710-1185) and both getting UNESCO distinction in 1994. The Ujigami Shrine has a second noteworthy accomplishment besides the UNESCO distinction, it is the oldest original Shinto Shrine building in Japan. With it's original timber still intact, it's year of construction can be traced back to 1060. This shrine was built as a guardian shrine for the other UNESCO site, the Byodo-in Temple. This temple enshrines an almost 11 foot, gold-leaf-covered Amida Buddha statue in the only surviving original structure, Phoenix Hall. The rest of the complex has been rebuilt at least once throughout history due to damage, but Phoenix Hall has never had to act upon its namesake and rise from it's own ashes.

I love Airbnb, as you can probably tell because that's what I used for every accommodation possible on not just this trip, but any others I take. Their experiences are no exception, every single one I've booked has been an absolute delight. This one was no different. Our guide Terumi was not just the sweetest woman, but also ridiculously knowledgeable, and you could tell the owners of the businesses we stopped at truly enjoyed her company. She managed a history lesson on not just tea, but also the city, as well as taking us to a couple shrines and stores not centered around tea. For example, the store pretty much dedicated to Ume, pickled plum, where I wanted to buy one of everything. I ended up with a pack of gummies and some hot sauce and the gummies didn't make it home...they didn't even make it to Hiroshima. I really should have bought more. But I digress, lets' get into the tour shall we?

The day started off a bit rough as we got on the wrong train, it still took us to Uji but just to the wrong station, we messaged Terumi once we realized and high-tailed it to the other station...with like 5 minutes to spare. Turns out we were the last to arrive (which I figured) so I was thankful they waited until the tour's technical start time before moving to the first destination. It was a pretty small group, which was very nice and included mostly people from the states, but also this one lady and her mother from the Philippines. Apparently her mother just started doing the travel thing and had become obsessed with it, it was so fun to see that light and excitement in her! She was really channeling her inner child in a way.

The main road, which has been around for over 850 years, was dotted with tea shops that held long histories within their walls, store fronts putting out their signs for Uji's signature dish of Unagi Kabayaki (charred eel) some with fresh eels swimming in tanks, stores boasting matcha sweets, cherry blossoms and other flowers, souvenir shops, traditional looking homes and temples. We set off pretty early and many places were closed or just starting their opening tasks for the day, so we didn't visit the first couple of tea shops we walked past. Tsuen Chaya ("-ya" is a suffix that means "shop" and "cha" means "tea") was the first shop we actually went into, which seemed appropriate since it is oldest tea house in Japan. Originally built in 1160 with the building that stands now having been built in 1672, it's said that it is also the guardian of the bridge. The shop houses artifacts such as centuries-old chatsubo (traditional tea jars), a wooden statue of the first-generation Tsuen, and a wooden bucket that is said to have been used by Toyotomi Hideyoshi (known as the second "Great Unifier" of Japan) to pull up fresh water from the Uji river for their tea. Here we enjoyed matcha dango, three balls of chewy mochi dough made of glutinous rice flour and flavored with Tsuen matcha, on a skewer. My first taste of matcha from this region and I was impressed. I already know I like the soft, but chewy texture of dango, but the matcha made it sweet and earthy, it was a nice combo.

One of the non-tea stops we made was at Asahiyaki, a pottery shop that goes back to the 1600's. It's the 15th oldest pottery in Kyoto, having lasted 400 years and through 16 generations, and uses the largest kiln in Kyoto. Its a type of kiln called noborigama, which has stepped chambers, typically built on a hillside or other sort of slope, that allow for temperature stability and unique patterns on the pieces from the falling ash. Every generation must create a new glaze, with the current generation using pastel greens, pinks, blues, and yellows. Its located on the bank of the Uji river, with a small patio on the back where you can enjoy the view.

Right next door is the Uji Shrine on one side of the street and another Tale of Genji statue on the other. The Uji Shrine sits just in front of the Ujigami Shrine, and were once all one shrine. We crossed under the towering red Torii and down a path lined with moss covered stone lanterns that led to a set of stairs. At the base was a purification basin with a rabbit statue as the faucet. Terumi explained that rabbits are very important to the town of Uji as a legend goes that the "mikaeri usagi" ("looking back rabbit") guided the lost Prince Wakiiratsuko back to town, specifically back to where this temple stands. This "mikaeri usagi" motif is unique to Uji because, via the legend, the rabbit continuously checked to ensure the Prince was still following it, by looking back and over it's shoulder.

The Ujigami Shrine was later raised in honor of this Prince and, understandably, the "mikaeri usagi" was made the guardian spirit. The shrine not only commemorates Prince Uji no Wakiiratsuko, but also his father, the 15th Emperor of Japan Ojin, and his brother Uji no Osazaka. The reason The shrine mainly focuses on Wakiiratsuko is because, after their father died, he and Osazaka both kept offering the other to take their father's place as emperor. Wakiiratsuko finally ended the squabble by taking his own life so that Osazaka could take the throne. Nowadays the Ujigami Shrine is separated from the Uji Shrine with another towering red torii at this entrance as well. On the other side is a pathway that leads to an arched wooden bridge with lush, lofty greenery on each side, providing shade as well as a feeling that you're entering a secret place.

The shrine here is small in size, but mighty in it's history. You'll find three unique buildings here, the prayer hall, the main hall, and the Kiriharasui; not in their function but in their design. The main hall is crafted in the Nagare-zukuri style, most notable for the asymmetrical, sloping roof that curves upward at the end. This is also the structure that's wood was dated to go back to the year 1060, it has been left in tact all those years, neither natural phenomenon nor human intervention having destroyed it, unlike the Byodoin temple across the river. It's now a surreal place where you can worship here, at a building that is just the same as it was 1000 years ago, where people for all of those years have been coming and worshipping at the same spot. It's kind of wild honestly.

Typically, prayer halls are open on all sides, sort of like a stage, but this one is closed all around and more closely resembles a residence. In fact it is made in the Shinden-zukuri style of architecture meant more palaces and noble's residences. There are also two mounds of sand that sit in front of the prayer hall called "tatesuna" which many believe are meant to represent the nearby mountains. While not as old as the main hall, it's still seen the passing of a number of years, having been built some time in the beginning of the Kamakura period, which ranged from 1185-1333.

Terumi showing how to use the Kiriharasui

This is the first, and only, time I have seen a Kiriharasui before, no other temple I went to previously or after ever had this so I think maybe this is a really unique find. Maybe not though? Maybe they're more common in other areas of Japan or something. Anyway, this small hut had wide, shallow, stone steps descending into a small pool of fresh water from the spring located in the same area. One of the "Seven Famous Waters of Uji," this water was once used for the purification rituals performed at this shrine. Nowadays, visitors can still purify themselves here by standing on the broad stone slab at the bottom, taking care to not let anything, except the ladles provided, touch the water.

Bellies were rumbling by this point, so we headed over to the Fukujuen Cafe for a matcha themed lunch, eating off of plates crafted at Asahiyaki. Everything on the menu here included green tea/matcha in the dish. We were served green tea and hojicha, which is roasted green tea, along with a sesame seed tofu to start. Normally tofu is made from soybeans, but this was made from crushed sesame seeds instead. It's a longer more difficult process, apparently, but I didn't notice much of a difference between this and typical tofu, which makes it seem like it would be a great alternative for those with soy allergies. The tofu was wrapped in a potato dumpling, which maybe also made it difficult to tell any differences, in a dashi stock and a matcha sauce. This was followed by some veggies, which I can't recall anything matcha-y about, but they were delicious. even the mushroom, which I don't typically like. The seasoning or whatever they had on them made them really tasty. The matcha soba came out next, I did not eat these mushrooms though as I have tried them plenty of times and never like them. I did try a bite to see if they were different, but nope, still yucky to me. The noodles though? Superb. Soba is a buckwheat noodle and they put matcha in with the buckwheat when they made them. Earthy and vibrant, but delicate too, in a clear broth that was light and delicious. I'll be honest, I can't remember what that last dish was, nor can I find information on the specific menu that we had that day, but I do remember that it was good.

Now that our bellies were full, we headed downstairs to learn the art of making matcha from scratch. Before entering the exceptionally clean room, we first had to remove our shoes and put on a mask since the matcha particles are pretty fine. We were each escorted to a long table with a large millstone in front of each seat. We were each given a portion of green tea leaves to turn into matcha powder. Turning our mills counterclockwise, and at a slow pace ensure the best amount of matcha produced as well as a better quality. Going quickly mean that the matcha would come out course and bitter. We then swept out the powder into a container where it separated the larger, course particles out of our finer ones. Off to another table, set up beautifully with a blue ceramic bowl, matcha whisk, small rectangular sweet, and our tin of matcha. We scooped out our matcha, handed it over to one of the ladies who had piping hot water ready to be ladled out into the bowls, and then were taught how to whip up the matcha to make it frothy. I had no idea that, that was what you were supposed to do, so I whipped it up and then we sipped away while enjoying the wagashi (sweet treat) that was likely made with rice flour, sugar, and some kind of seasonal flavor. It was sweet and chewy, a nice compliment to the tea. this was my first real taste of pure matcha so far this trip and I surprised myself by how much I enjoyed it. I even ended up buying a canister of it from another shop we visited.

With a new appreciation for how much time and care goes into making one cup of matcha, we were off to a tea ceremony held at Taihoan, the municipal tea house of Uji. We were not allowed to take photos of the actual ceremony, nor of the people conducting the ceremony, but we did take pictures in the main tea room before the ceremony began and of the wagashi given with our tea. it was a very nice ceremony and was explained very well between our guide Terumi and the tea master who conducted it. I was obsessed with the small pit of fire beneath the tatami where the kettle sat. I imagine its incredibly cozy in the winter to sit in this room, warm from the fire, the tea, and the tones of the tatami mats with snow falling out in the garden. A winter visit may be in order haha!

We thanked the ladies of the tea ceremony, and began our ascent to maybe the highest point in town. It offered not only a beautiful view of Uji and its surrounding forests, but also is the home of one of the tea gardens. On the way up we saw one large property that had it's tea fully covered up, since tea leaves that are not exposed to sunlight will be sweeter, and at the tippy-top of the hill was another tea garden, also covered, but because it was at ground level along the road, instead of on a sloping hill on private property, we were able to see it from the side. It wasn't like I thought I might see. This is the Uji Shichimeien Garden and...it was small, though it housed an incredible amount of tea plants still, and covered by a black tarp. I guess when I imagined tea gardens they would be sprawling greenery that stretched out for miles, not sort of like a greenhouse in between what looked like residences and viewable from a road. Although I was underwhelmed by this specific site, it has a long history dating back to 1879, is one of the oldest tea gardens in Uji, and the tea produced from these plants has won many awards. The store, Horii Shichimeien, harvests their tea from here and is actually where I bought both hojicha and that canister of matcha from.

On the way back down to the main road, we stopped at a few places to check out the tea, admire cherry blossoms and views from bridges, and even had a matcha tasting at one of the other shops. Terumi redirected Bestie and I to the plum shop and others to their points of interest. We decided to head out of Uji and back to Kyoto to just do a bit of wandering, though I think I'd like to spend a night in Uji next time I visit. I'm finding that I'm more fond of these quieter, cozier places than I am of the bigger, sprawling cities, and I could have spent way more time here meandering in and out of shops and also going to the Byodo-in temple which I'm now realizing that we never made it to, as well as other sights. In the moment it all seems like a whirlwind and that we had done everything, or at least enough to be satisfied.

But in reality I don't think I'll ever be satisfied with my length of time in any new place. There's always something you discover you'd missed or things you'd wished you'd done differently, but in the end I'm just thankful I was able to do this trip and have all of these wonderful experiences, especially with a friend that I have had since kindergarten, someone who is truly like a sister to me at this point. I consider myself lucky to be able to weasel enough money away to have these grand adventures, because without them I would find life to be way less fulfilling.